Dave's Trip to Africa
In the summer of 1997 I went to Africa for a month. I went with Tusker Trail and Safari Co. and did their Rift Valley Expedition with the Kilimanjaro extension. Our group of twelve people took about a week to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro, did the isle of Zanzibar for three days, spent about two weeks in parks and game reserves in southern Tanzania, and ended up in northern Malawi. [ May 2004 - I've started posting a few pictures from this trip in the picture gallery section of my web-site.]
The Tanzanian Tourist Board sponsors a very good web-site containing information regarding Tanzanian culture, economy, geography, etc.
Here's some info about Kilimanjaro from the tour company's brochure:
Snow-capped Kilimanjaro, an extinct volcano, is the
tallest mountain in Africa. Only 3 degrees below the equator, the
mountain has two peaks - KIBO (19,340 ft) and MAWENZI (16,890
ft). On Kibo, you find Gillman's Point (18,635 ft) and Uhuru Peak
(705 ft. higher). Both are on the rim of a crater and can be
climbed by any normally fit person.
On the climb up the 5-day Marangu and 6-day Machame routes [I
took the Machame], you notice the vegetation changing daily. It
varies from dense rain-forest, through alpine moorland, to the
lunar-like landscape of the Kibo saddle, which gives way to snow
and scree towards the peak. The climb is not too difficult up to
14,700 ft. and compares with a tough mountain hike. But once
you're near the peak, past the last hut, the thin air and steep
route make the climb extremely exhausting. Some of the more
experienced climbers in good condition will make it to Uhuru Peak
- the crown of Africa. On the Machame Route we pitch tents every
night, except for the last night, where we stay in A-frame huts
at Horombo.
You climb approximately 3,300 ft. and descend about 5,000 ft. per
day, walking an average of 9 miles (4-6 hours) each day. On the
last day's climb, you walk about 18 miles (12 hours) to the
summit, and down to Horombo hut.
Here is the detailed itinerary. Most of this is cut-and-pasted from tour company info.
| July 26 | American Airlines #4933 leave Boston at 11:45am arrive New York (JFK) at 1:00pm South African Airlines
#202 |
| July 27 | arrive Johannesburg at 2:55pm Overnight
at Garden Court Hotel |
| July 28 | South African Airlines #184 leave Johannesburg at 9:45am arrive Nairobi at 2:50pm Overnight at Hotel Boulevard |
| July 29 | Take Davanu Shuttle bus from Hotel
Boulevard to Keys Hotel, Moshi. to join the rest of the
group for the climb. Overnight at Keys Hotel |
| July 30th | MACHAME GATE - MACHAME HUT (6,000 -
9,750 ft.) After breakfast, you hand your gear to the porters, and then head out by vehicle to the gate to KILIMANJARO NATIONAL PARK. We pass the banana and coffee plantations, and stop briefly at a couple small shops en-route to pick up a few last-minute supplies. After your leader takes care of the laborious paperwork and formalities, we say goodbye to the group wimps and start our climb. The track narrows and then leads us uphill for about 3-4 hours through the tropical rain-forest to Machame Hut. As soon as you arrive, you set up your tent in the forest and enjoy the natural beauty and solitude. |
| July 31st | MACHAME HUT - SHIRA PLATEAU (9,750 -
12,480 ft.) We start out at about 8 a.m. and leave the last glades of the rain-forest behind. On a clear day you can see your first close-up of Kibo Peak - from 20 miles away. Passing the fields of heather, the mountainside gradually opens up. You now begin to feel the effects of the altitude, and should walk slowly for two reasons. Because that's all you can do. And to enjoy the hike. In other words, "stop to smell the giant lobelia". After 9,000 ft. you pass the first giant lobelia, protea and senecia, and reach Shira in 5 hours. On a cloudy day we're now above the clouds. |
| August 1 | SHIRA PLATEAU - BARANCO HUT (12,480 -
12,675 ft.) Today's the last of the "easy days". We hike past the Lava Tower and slowly descend to Baranco, our most spectacular campsite, on the banks of a mountain stream right at the foot of Kibo Peak which looms high above. This is where you must decide to continue to the top -- or turn back. If you can't make it, then you will continue on to Horombo hut, to await those that made the final ascent. |
| August 2 | BARANCO - BARAFU HUT (12,675 - 14,950
ft.) The air is starting to get quite thin, and you will be running short of breath. Our first obstacle is to breach the Baranco Wall, a 600 foot rock. Then it is a slow hike up to Barafu hut. "Barafu" means "ice" in Swahili, and it is extremely cold at this altitude. Go to bed early 'cos we'll wake you at midnight for the final leg. |
| August 3 | BARAFU HUT - KIBO PEAK- HOROMBO HUT (The
Top - 19,340 ft.) Dress warmly because we start climbing around midnight on the steepest and most demanding part of the mountain. The moon will provide enough light and we'll reach the Crater rim by sunrise. (About 6 hrs.) At dawn, from the Crater rim, rugged Mawenzi is a thrilling sight, with the Kibo saddle still in darkness beneath you, and the crater's ice-walls looming ahead. If you feel strong enough, you can continue to Uhuru Peak (1-2 hrs.) This is the highest point in Africa and the world's highest solitary peak (19,340 ft). Quite a view! Though the descent is far less tiring, it's a good idea to have a little rest at Kibo hut before continuing down to Horombo (3 hours). |
| August 4 | HOROMBO - MARANGU - MOSHI In the morning we walk down to Mandara hut. After a welcome lunch it's time to say "kwaheri" to the porters. We then follow the trail back to the gate, and a well deserved beer. This takes 6 to 7 hours (the walk, not the beer). Again, we overnight at the hotel. |
| August 5 | Drive to Dar es Salaam. Stay overnight
at the charming Bahari Beach Hotel, on the Indian Ocean. Bahari
Beach Hotel |
| August 6-8 | Zanzibar. We set out by boat for the spice island, gliding back in time. Zanzibar is "magical", in a word. We stay at the the International Hotel, one of Zanzibar's traditional hotels, in the heart of "stone town", and use it as our base for discovering this enchanting, historical city. |
| August 9 | Once back on the mainland, after getting our land-legs, we strike south for the Selous Game Reserve, camping out at Kibiti, just before the park. |
| August 10-12 | Selous Game Reserve. Pushing west, we enter the largest and least visited game reserve in Africa - the Selous - 20,000 square miles. Getting around here is tough. We may have to dig ourselves out of mud holes, or rebuild broken bridges. But after all -- that's part of expedition life. We spend our days tracking game -- on foot, in 4x4's and by boat. Lion and elephant live throughout the Selous. Large numbers of zebra, impala and buffalo inhabit the savannah, while sable, kudu and grysbok browse the woodland. |
| August 13,14 | Kisaki-Mbuyuni. Pressing north and then southwest over the Uluguru Mountains, we camp in the magical Baobab forest at Mbuyuni, heading for Ruaha National Park. |
| August 15-18 | Ruaha National Park. Heading through
Iringa to restock up on water, fuel and supplies at the
outdoor market, we turn off the main northern route onto
an old dirt track towards Ruaha National Park. Ruaha is one of the most seldom visited game reserves in East Africa, and one of the last few remaining "true" wild areas there. We set up camp for three days under an old Acacia tree on the banks of the Great Ruaha River. The park has a large population of elephant, as well as buffalo, lion, leopard, cheetah, giraffe and a large variety of plains game. |
| August 19 | Ifunda. On our way south towards Malawi, we camp along the way at Ifunda. |
| August 20-22 | Chiweta. As we head out of Tanzania, we
pass through the high tea country in the Kipengere
highlands and descend the spectacular mountain range into
the Rift Valley in Malawi. Passing many typical African villages, we arrive at Chiweta -- one of these small villages in northern Malawi, and one of our favorite spots in the remote northern region of Malawi. We set up camp for 3 days right on the beach. The local chief, Mahongo, is an old friend of ours. With Chief Mahongo's permission, and some luck, we hope to get invited to some traditional tribal ceremonies. |
| August 23 | Our last day on expedition finds us traveling to Malawi's capital, Lilongwe. Here we check into the "luxurious" Lilongwe hotel for a welcome hot shower and a bed. We celebrate the completion of this extraordinary expedition in typical Tusker style. |
| August 24 | Air Malawi #181 leave Lilongwe at 9:30am arrive Lusaka, Zambia at 11:10am South African Airlines
#65 South African Airlines #201 |
| August 25 | arrive New York (JFK) at 7:30am American
Airlines #4909 |